Loved by formulators. Overused by marketers. Misunderstood by many.
Niacinamide (aka Vitamin B3) is one of the most talked-about skincare ingredients of the last decade, and for good reason. It’s multifunctional, stable, water-soluble, and plays well in most formulations.
But while it’s easy to include, it’s not always easy to get right.
Let’s break down what product developers really need to know about this ingredient, and how to use it strategically in modern skincare formulas.
What Is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that offers a wide range of clinically backed skin benefits. It’s found in everything from serums to sunscreens, moisturizers to masks, and is often marketed as a do-it-all active.
But the key to harnessing its benefits lies in how it’s formulated, not just that it’s listed on the label.
Why Formulators (Still) Love Niacinamide
When used properly, niacinamide offers broad-spectrum efficacy:
✅ Brightens dull skin and evens tone
✅ Strengthens the skin barrier by increasing ceramide synthesis
✅ Regulates sebum production in oily and acne-prone skin
✅ Reduces redness and inflammation
✅ Supports elasticity and fine line reduction
Its versatility makes it ideal for everything from acne treatments to anti-aging and sensitive skin products.
What the Science Actually Tells Us
Despite its popularity, more isn’t always better. Here's what formulators should keep in mind:
🔬 2–5% is the sweet spot
Clinical studies show the most consistent results in this range. It’s effective without increasing the risk of irritation.
⚠️ High concentrations can backfire
Using niacinamide at 10% or higher? Be careful. It may lead to redness, flushing, or barrier disruption, especially in sensitive skin types.
🧪 Formulation compatibility matters
Niacinamide is stable across a wide pH range, but pairing it with ingredients like AHAs, L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), or retinol requires thoughtful formulation to avoid irritation or destabilization.
In short: It’s not just about the percentage. It’s about the formula as a whole, texture, delivery, supporting actives, and stability all impact performance.
How Top Brands Use It Strategically
🧴 Glow Recipe Watermelon Niacinamide Dew Drops – 5% niacinamide, balanced with humectants for barrier-safe glow
🌿 The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% – popular but polarizing due to potential irritation at high concentrations
🔬 Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster – buffered with soothing ingredients to reduce risk of redness
Want to create your own niacinamide-based hero product? It’s all about intelligent formulation.
Our Take: Precision > Hype
At Cosmetic Makers, we help founders take popular ingredients—like niacinamide—and turn them into standout products, not just another bottle in a crowded lineup.
We look at the whole system:
→ The skin concern
→ The delivery system
→ Supporting actives
→ Packaging + stability
→ Your brand’s positioning
Because every good formula starts with a good idea, but it takes real precision to make it work.
Ready to Develop Smarter Formulas?
We specialize in custom skincare development, from barrier-supporting serums to brightening treatments backed by science and smart ingredient strategy.
👉 Start your formulation journey with us
Or check out our R&D blog for more Ingredient Spotlights and lab-tested insights.
